roystonellis.com
14/08/2011
Greetings! And apologies to those who didn’t receive last week’s newsletter. We’re having server problems. But each newsletter is uploaded to my website (
www.roystonellis.com) every week so you can read it there – and check the ones you've missed too.
Beef Fry
In my quest to find and taste uniquely Sri Lankan products (cheese, gruel, jams, etc) I have found the equivalent of a savoury jam, Beef Fry.
The label states that this is “made to a novel homemade recipe liked and patronized [sic] for its exotic flavour and taste.” It is billed as “a delicious side dish for rice and curry, Chinese dishes, noodles, macaroni, spaghetti, etc.” and even “makes a delicious spread for bread and bun when added with butter or margarine.”
I can vouch for the latter; it adds a zing to (gluten-free) cocktail crackers with its crispy, spicy taste. The ingredients are listed as “onion, beef, vegetable oil, chillie [sic] powder, lime, spices, condiments.” It has a taste of soya sauce too but I am assured by the producers that soya sauce isn’t used, which means it is probably gluten free (although the producers admit they have not done an analysis). Anyway, I love it and buy three jars at a time.
It costs Rs 370 (£ 2,11, U S $ 3.36) a 200g jar. More information from
careemfoods@live.com
Bar None
The best bar (as opposed to a pub) that I have ever been to is Boadas, off the Rambla in Barcelona, established in the 1930s and still functioning with that aura: the three barmen on duty wear dinner jackets and bow ties, and cheerfully mix cocktails in the most cramped conditions. It’s my favourite bar because regulars sit at the counter and get a chance to exchange banter with the barmen. There are no seats anywhere, only a few stools, and it’s usually standing room only.
I am stirred – not shaken -- to recall Boadas when I consider bars in Sri Lanka. Alas, they are mostly the kind where the counter serves as a dispensary disguising the ineptitude and lack of personality of the guy mixing the drinks. Drinkers have to sit at coffee tables, order from a cocktail list, and wait and wait for the waiter.
The bars I like are those where I can sit on a stool at the bar counter, chat to the barman, and watch that he is making drinks correctly. This photograph is of a rare bar of that vintage at an old rest house, now known as the Weligama Bay Inn, in the south of Sri Lanka. The stools look too fragile for serious drinkers but at least they exist. Note, too, the old-fashioned drop down shutter to close up the bar. What makes the photo more unusual is that it was taken at breakfast time!
I hope to photograph more spectacular bar counters for future newsletters; at least that’s my excuse for some engrossing research.
Ghostly Cheers
My erstwhile colleague, the award winning AP photographer, Gemunu Amarasinghe, turned up at Horizon Cottage recently with a very expensive new camera. This is the photo he took with it and sent me as a memento of what appears to be ghostly cheers as I propose a toast.
On Safari
A safari in Sri Lanka is nothing like those to be experienced in Africa. The difference is not just the wild life but the tame life too. There are no half-naked tribesmen in red, brandishing spears and relishing cow dung and blood. Yala National Park, the most famous of Sri Lanka’s wild life reserves, does feature elephants and crocodiles and the occasional leopard, but no one as exotic as a Masai or Samburu warrior.
However, there is a boat safari on a king-made reservoir, the Tissa Wewa, to be enjoyed from the jetty of The Safari, a new hotel created out of the former Tissamaharama Rest House. While other guests bounced around the bush for four hours in hired four-wheel drive vehicles, I chartered Kamesh and his motorboat for a gentle cruise gazing at birds gazing at us.
Kamesh cut the boat’s engine for a while (it helped use up the hour’s hire time for which he was charging us Rs 2,000 [£ 11.42, U S $ 18.80]) and poled the boat through shallow waters, blooming lotus flowers and reeds. He helped us to disembark on the soggy islet and plod around. When I asked what we were looking for, he said: “A crocodile.”
Luckily, we didn't find one.
The Safari has a swimming pool overlooking the reservoir and neat rooms with faux wood panelling and deep, comfortable mattresses. All meals are taken as buffets with only vegetable, fish or chicken dishes, mostly curried, available because many guests are pilgrims bound for the nearby Kataragama shrine.
The hotel is a great base for a few days exploring the southeast corner of Sri Lanka, and even for making day-long excursions to Arugam Bay for surfing or to the chilly hill country scenery of Ella and Haputale.There is a special room rate until 1 November 2011 of Rs 10,600 (£ 60.57, .36) for two people with dinner and breakfast and all taxes and service charge included. (
www.thesafari.lk)
More
There’s more about this hotel, and scores of others well worth a visit, adding to Sri Lanka’s irresistible appeal, in my book “Guide To Sri Lanka” available from Vijitha Yapa bookshops in Colombo at Rs 2,950, and bookshops in the UK (£ 15.99) and USA ($ 23.99) or from the publisher
www.bradtguides.com
Great reading!
Royston
LG Premasiri