Newsletter aus Sri Lanka von Royston Ellis

Hallo Premasiri,

ich kann mich Petra nur anschliessen, danke für das Einstellen der Briefe. :danke:

The 116-km road from Colombo to Kandy is rich in wayside stalls selling all manner of goodies in different sections, starting with pineapples near Kadawata stacked on shelves or peeled and quartered with a sprinkling of salt and pepper, and ending with avocado pears piled high at a bend near Peradeniya. Flirtatious maidens offer cashew nuts at Cadjugama (Cashew Village) while basketware and cane furniture is to be had by the wide sweep of road at Radawadunna.

Wenn wir die Strecke mit dem Auto gefahren sind/wurden, dann wurde die Tour meistens länger (von der Zeit her) als geplant, weil man doch hier und da mal angehalten hat.

L.G., Biggi
 
Zum Thema Map Mystery aus dem Baedeker von 1914:

Der älteste Name der Insel, Tamraparni, d. h. glänzend wie Kupfer, mag mit der Farbe des Laterits (S. 15) zusammenhängen. Die Griechen, denen sie seit dem Zuge Alexanders d. Gr. bekannt wurde, machten daraus Taprobane. Die klassische Literatur der Inder, z. T. das Epos Ramayana, nennt sie Lanka, wie noch heute die Eingeborenen. Auf die arischen Eroberer aus Nordindien, die nach der Sage 543 vor Chr. unter ihrem Führer Singha (der Löwe) auf die Insel kamen, geht der Name Singhala zurück, aus dem in europäischer Umformung Ceylon wurde.

lg,
Joe
 
ROYSTON’S REPORT, Number 165

Tropical Topics, Sunday 16 June 2013.

Storms, sky, and rail news this week.

Stormy Weather
Topical tropical weathermeans storms as well as sunshine and last week’s newsletter nearly didn’t happen because of a fierce storm that erupted on Friday night, with fishermen drowning, fishing boats capsizing and being washed up on the beach, electricity poles toppling over and trees crashing onto telephone lines.
Fallen trees blocked roads
There was no electricity for the weekend and, being unable to recharge laptop batteries, we had to use an emergency generator for power. And the storm caused havoc with internet signals and telephone connections so it made uploading photos for the newsletter a painstaking task.

Amaara Sky
When I was in Kandy recently I popped into a new hotel that’s being billed as “boutique style in the Kandyan sky.” Well the Amaara Sky Hotelis appropriately named as it soars into the sky atop a hill overlooking Kandy.
Amaara Sky view of Kandy, temple & lake
Somehow 12 well-appointed rooms including a split level penthouse suite, all with balconies, are neatly packed into this new boutique property which also has a spa in the sky with Jacuzzi, sauna and steam bath and therapists experienced in ayurvedic treatments.
Amaara Sky penthouse suite
The restaurant with a view where I enjoyed a tender lamb chop is open to non-residents and there is a long terrace for evening alfresco dining too.
Amaara Sky restaurant
With over 80 stunning paintings by local artists hanging on the walls of the public areas and bedrooms, this a bright & delightful place to stay while exploring Kandy.
Amaara Sky bedroom
It’s 2km from the city centre, up the road that’s opposite the Kandy police station. (www.amaarsky.com)

Barfly buzz
As regular readers know, I delight in finding little known bars with a certain sleaziness, but where a stranger is tolerated – and tourists seldom venture. There’s my favourite High Cliffe Bar in Haputale with bells at every table to summon service, the Lion Brewery Beer Shop (in its various re-incarnations) in Nuwara Eliya, and now, at last, I have discovered another one.

We were in Batticaloa on the east coast trying to find our way around the bustling town, and feeling thirsty after a four-hour drive from Kandy. While we saw ‘wine shops’ where drinks can be bought to be consumed off the premises, we wanted a bar. We asked for directions at one wine shop next to a shuttered café and were told to go upstairs.

So we clambered over obstructions in a side alley and ascended up three flights of steps in total darkness, feeling our way up the grubby walls. Then we found ourselves on a rooftop, caged in with chicken wire sides and with moveable wooden partitions dividing the space. We had discovered Hamsha Restaurant & Bar (4 Lloyds Avenue, Batticaloa).
Suvendran at Hamsha Bar
Our arrival caused slight consternation as the staff clearly didn’t expect visitors. But with bottles of beer quickly brought to the table, and plates of freshly caught prawns from the lagoon at the doorstop (Rs250 [£ 1.31; S 2.00]) and a delicious mixed fried rice (Rs280 [£ 1.47; $ 2.24]) we were content.
Fried fresh prawns
The view through the chicken wire of bridges over the lagoon, the joyous sound of Tamil music blasting from a nearby house and the camaraderie of customers and staff added to our enjoyment.
Batticaloa
Batticaloa is gradually being smartened up and the lagoon front has just had some brightly painted concrete benches installed by a newly built promenade, which I was one of the first to try.
Batticaloa new waterfront promenade
Lanka Railway Digest
There is a signpost indicating a level cross outside my garden gate that gives access to the railway line, the Galle Road, and the beach. I am reminded of it every morning at approximately 5am when the long distance train, number 8311, on its way from Galle to Colombo, blows its whistle in response to the sign… and wakes me up.
Level crossing track sign
Luckily I like trains! So, as a rail fan, I was thrilled to receive a copy of the first anniversary edition of Lanka Railway Digest. In A4 format of 40 pages, the magazine is filled with technical matters (some in Sinhala with English summaries) as well as articles about the sheer joy of trains.
This issue features five articles about the Brush-Bagnall snub-nosed Class M1 diesel locomotive, marking 60 years since it was introduced into Sri Lanka. The despairing tone about the difficult restoration of a Class M1 engine in one article is relieved by a joyous feature detailing the successful, if long, hauling of the M1 by the new Indian M10 from Dematagoda Running Shed to Maho.
Other articles reveal details (and photos) of a ghost railway station at St Clair; the last journey from Colombo to Badulla in February 2013 of the Udarata Menike (Hill Country Maiden) as a separate carriage train hauled by a diesel electric loco, M6, No 784. (It is now consists of the brand new Chinese built Class S12 Diesel Multiple Unit (DMUs).
Class M6 790 at Colombo
There is a is a review of “Adventures in Steam…British Era,” an article on dynamic breaks; one on the RMO (Railway Medical Officer) of the colonial era; another on track signs; one on steam locomotives named after governors of Ceylon; an amusing account of battles over a station’s name, an account of a disastrous train crash in 1928; and an inspired idea for a rail track to bypass Galle station.
Articles are by distinguished contributors with a former Deputy Prime Minister of Australia detailing the various kinds of broad gauge, from which we learn that Sri Lanka has the same broad gauge (5ft 6in wide) system as Argentina, Chile, India, Pakistan & the USA) and has the highest broad gauge railway in the world.
Cover of LRD
This fascinating magazine is published in April, August & December by the Ceylon Railways Enthusiasts’ Circle at Rs200 each issue (or US$6, AUD5; GBP3.50 by subscription, enquiries to lankarailwaydigest@gmail; www.ceylonrail.net).
Happy travelling
Royston

Auch von mir gute Reise mit was auch immer ihr unterwegs seid

LG Premasiri :wink:
 
ROYSTON’S REPORT Number 166

TROPICAL TOPICS, Sunday 23 JUNE 2013.

Welcome to this week’s newsletter.

Made in Sri Lanka
There were a few cardamom pods in my breakfast mutton (goat, actually) curry yesterday, and I often crush a couple of dried cardamoms and pop them into my morning cup of strong black coffee. They add a delightful fragrance and taste.
Cardamom pods

Cardamom pod packet
Cardamom (Ellettaria cardamomum) yields small seed pods, triangular in cross section and spindle shaped, with a thin, papery outer shell and small black seeds.
We can purchase dried cardamom grown in Sri Lanka, with 25g in a pretty brand name packet costing Rs220 [£ 1.10; $ 1.69] or in the village market at Rs100 [.50p; .76c] for the same amount. Pods are good to chew to freshen the breath and are also also used in medicine, curries, gin flavouring, and can even be smoked. Cardamom is the world’s third most expensive spice (after saffron and vanilla) and has an intensely aromatic, resinous flavour with the steam distillation extraction of green cardamom yielding a rousing perfume.
I’ve been investigating cardamom because its fragrance is to be the predominant note in a perfume being created in New York to mark the publication soon of a collection of my 1960 beat generation poems. The plan is to market the perfume as Rave, so watch this space for more pungent news. Rave on!

Green Paradise Agro Eco Hotel

I’m always happy to meet up with Sri Lankans in the hospitality industry whom I first met when they were in junior positions, to find they have risen to the heights of the profession. Such a man is Susantha Bandara whom I met when he was in charge of the executive floor at Cinnamon Grand and now, after being a training manager for Aitken Spence resorts in the Maldives, is Resident Manager of an idyllic tropical retreat in the middle of Sri Lanka, Green Paradise Agro Eco Hotel.


Green Paradise villas

Although the address of this hotel is Dambulla it is actually 14km from Dambulla along the road to Kandalama that branches off the A9 just before it joins the A6. I mention how to get there first as this 67-chalet hotel is in the wilderness and rewards guests who find it, with a much more elegant and sophisticated resort than the formidable term “Agro Eco Hotel” implies.


An eco trail

It is a tranquil complex of terraced deluxe chalets and semi-detached garden villa suites with its own nature trail to a mini lake, huge boulders to climb, and a kids’ & adults’ swimming pools (33m long), gym & spa, open-sided bar and dining pavilions.


Green Paradise lake

Timber beams, high roofs, wooden floors and a sense of community (chalets are grouped around a park) are the hallmarks of this newly built country retreat where “agro” and “eco” concepts are pursued, but not thrust in guests’ faces.


Green Paradise garden suite

There is no “hard” music at night for instance, but a flautist sensitively playing solos, or an oriental mandolin player.


Sensitive flute playing

It’s the kind of place that merits more than a one-night transit stop as rooms are creatively designed with attics for sitting rooms or kids, huge wardrobe, Italian fittings & bird song chorus accompanying perfect peace. www.greenparadise.net



Changing Trains
The journey through the hill country sitting in the observation saloon of the Podi Menike (Little Maiden) and Udarata Menike (Upcountry Maiden) trains hauled by ancient diesel locomotives used to be one of the highlights of a visit to Sri Lanka for those seeking a recollection of colonial times. Now it’s a different experience as the trains have changed and been quietly replaced by Chinese-made DMUs taking over the Maidens’ duties.


DMU at Ella station

A DMU is a Diesel Multiple Unit and is as charmless as it sounds. It has eight carriages, with a diesel locomotive fore and aft, and somehow robs the 290 km journey between Colombo and Badulla on the highest broad gauge railway line in the world, of the old romance of rail.

It has a first class carriage in which a seat, either for the whole journey or to intermediate stations, costs Rs1,250 [£ 6.25; $ 9.60]. A sliding door blocks this carriage off from the rest of the train; it has AC (hardly necessary in the crisp coolness of the hill country) and a notice prohibiting smoking or alcohol. It seems a bit boring.


DMU 1st class, not much fun

Rail excitement remains, however, in the DMUs 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] & 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] class carriages with open windows, fans, and handles for strap-hangers, which suggests that this train was originally intended for crowded commuter travel, not 10-hour jaunts through the tea clad hills of the interior.


DMU more fun in 2nd class

There is now only one day time train on the hill country line that survives from the days when the journey was a leisurely pleasure: passenger train Number 1007 departing from Colombo at 08.30 daily, arriving at Badulla at 17.55hrs… if all goes well. Hauled by a 35-year-old diesel locomotive, it has a comfortable first class carriage operated by Exporail with snacks, a meal and tea included at Rs2,250 [£ 11.25; $ 17.30] as well as an old but comfortable observation car at the rear of the train (fare: Rs660 [£ 3.30; $ 5.28]) and 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] & 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] class.


Old diesel loco at Haputale
Hacked
A website dilemma

Sri Lanka is No. 8 on Kaspersky's list of countries with the highest percentage of computer attacks. A press release says: “The security company found that 51 per cent of its users there faced online assaults.About 15 per cent of Sri Lanka's population, or an estimated 3.2 million people, were online last year, according to Internet World Stats.” The seven countries worse than Sri Lanka for computer attacks are Russia at No. 1 and various former USSR states with Bangladesh at No. 7; India is No.9.

Now I know what happened to this newsletter a couple of weeks ago when there was a message from Red Vampire instead of Royston’s Report on my website.

Goofed
My enthusiasm for Amaara Sky Hotel in Kandy last week blinded me to its correct website address which is www.amaarasky.com. Sorry!

Happy travels!
Royston

Premasiri :wink:
 
Das Greenparadise schaut richtig gut aus. Leider habe ich keine Preise auf der HP gefunden, aber die werden ohnehin etwas höher ausfallen.
Es liegt aber recht günstig, Dambulla, Sigiriya und Polonnaruwa kann man von dort aus als Tagesausflug gut angehen.

L.G., Biggi
 
ROYSTON’S REPORT, Number 167

Sunday 30 June 2013

Welcome to this week’s report on some good things in Sri Lanka.

Made in Sri Lanka
I have written several times before about jaggery (a kind of fudge made by distilling the sap of the kithul palm) and I am always happy to discover new sources and shapes.
Jaggery chunks

The nearest village market to my cottage is about 2kms inland at a small village called Gonagalapura where, on Tuesday mornings, an open space beside the village road is filled with market traders. I was attracted by this small oval chunk of jaggery, priced at Rs100 [50p; 76c]. It’s fine, sweet and smoky – lovely to nibble with plain tea.
Haputale Railway Station
Haputale is my favourite town in Sri Lanka. It exists because of tea, having developed after Thomas Lipton snapped up failing coffee plantations in 1890 and encouraged planters to grow tea, which he successfully marketed through his grocery shops in Britain. Although Haputale thrived, it remains a small town perched on hills with a high street that seems to swoop off into space.
Haputale railway station

At 1,431m above sea level and 246km from Colombo, Haputale has been served by trains since 1893. Even today the railway station preserves some of the characteristics of the early days of rail. It is carefully maintained, clean and abloom with plants. It has semaphore signals, hand operated points controls, and a Tyer’s Patent Train Tablet Apparatus. This consists of two bright red boxes with brass fittings that issues a token when the single track line is clear for trains to proceed.
Inside ticket office at Haputale

Staff at the station are happy to explain the working of this Apparatus to visitors. It is to be seen in the ticket office, where tickets are still cardboard ones issued from a specially designed cupboard.
Haputale railyway station ticket office
Even the office clock, with the initials CGR (Ceylon Government Railways) is still working.
CGR station clock
The station has two waiting rooms with toilets, one for Gents and one for Ladies, although the only furniture is this outsize table in the Ladies.
Ladies' rest room furniture
I also found an old cast iron plaque, the original sign for drinking water, although the fountain has now become a plastic pipe.
Edwardian drinking fountain
High Cliffe
Haputale town centre wth High Cliffe (right)
One reason why I like Haputale so much is because of its old hostelry, High Cliffe. Originally a colonial bungalow by the railway track that, with its bunk beds in dormitories, became a haven for hippies in the 1970s, it has now evolved into a tall hotel with smart, clean rooms and staggering views of the distant hills. And it costs only R2,500 [£ 12.50; US$ 19.23] a night, double.
High Cliffe room with a view
It also has a popular first floor bar with a secret entrance, where service is summoned by electric bells and food is prepared on demand. The devilled beef has the added flavour of plenty of garlic and costs Rs550 [£ 2.75; US$ 4.23]
High Cliffe devilled beef
Strangely, although it has several attractions, like the original Lipton’s tea factory at Dambatenne and Lipton’s mountain top seat, as well as the colonial bungalow retreat and museum of Adisham, Haputale is seldom visited by travellers. They seem to prefer Ella, a town 23km further along the railway line to the east, that has a rash of guesthouses and cafés – but none as jolly or as cheap as High Cliffe.

Out of the Frame
That’s the clever title of a an exhibition of photographs by 45 photographers with Sri Lanka connections being held from the 5th to 10th July 2013 at the Lionel Wendt Art Gallery, Colombo, Sri Lanka. A press release says: “These photographers’ innovative perspectives help to change the way we see women.”

R ‘n’R
RnR top floor lounge
To those of a certain age, R ‘n’ R represents Rock ‘n’ Roll, or Rest & Relaxation for military types, but in Colombo it’s the name of a new theme bar & restaurant by the restored Race Course, now turned into a rugby field. Rejuvenate & Rejoice is the theme and since the restaurant serves meals and drinks all day, it’s perfect for a late lunch of good quality food. My satisfying Australian tenderloin steak cost Rs2,700 [£ 13.50; US$ 20.76]; a full bodied margarita Rs850 [£ 4.25; $ 6.53].
RnR Steak & Margarita
The rock ‘n’ roll concept is pursued in the décor of the upstairs viewing lounge with its pop posters, cushions emblazoned with song titles and gaudy retro juke box. But I got a rude shock in the loo when I faced a poster advertising a concert featuring “the return of Jet Harris.”
Reproduced Poster
Only the day before I had finished reading the biography, Jet Harris: In Spite of Everything, and the memory of Jet, who died in March 2011, was still haunting me, hence my surprise at seeing the poster. When Jet was bass guitar player in Cliff Richard’s Drifters and renamed his group, The Shadows, he was a great friend of mine, as well as a tantalising star.
Jet & Royston, 1959. From THE BIG BEAT SCENE
It was Jet who set me on the path to fame as a performing poet when he and The Shadows accompanied me on stage and television shows while I belted out my beat poetry. The biography is almost embarrassing in its revelations and with the candid recollections of some of Jet’s friends. It’s available from Music Mentor Books: http://musicmentor0.tripod.com/book_jet_harris.html
Jet's biography book cover
Beat regards
Royston

wünsche allen eine sonnige Woche
LG Premasiri :Gitarre:
 
ROYSTON’S REPORT Number 168

TROPICAL TOPICS, Sunday 7 July 2013.
Welcome to this week’s report on life in Sri Lanka.

Grown in Sri Lanka

When I suggested while driving in the country that we stop at a roadside stall to try durian, Kumara and Ranga, the driver, where appalled. That’s because durian pongs a bit but the flesh within its prickly husk tastes divine, like custard with attitude.
Durians on display


There are said to be 30 species of durian with Durio zibethinus being the main one available internationally and grown in Sri Lanka. Durians arrived in Sri Lanka from eastern Asia with the Portuguese in the 16[SUP]th[/SUP] century. Trees up to 150 years old grow in the island’s interior where this year there seems to be a glut of durians - either because of good harvest or timorous customers?

Durian flesh like custard with attitude


This delicious durian cost Rs250 [£ 1.25; $ 1.92] and was opened expertly and portioned by a girl with a cutlass who was unperturbed by the rotten aroma. She shamed Kumara and Ranga into trying it (we pulled out the seeds with our fingers and messily devoured the ambrosial pulp covering them). I took one home but had to hang it in the outside shower because of the smell, until I enjoyed it while alone in the garden one carefree afternoon.

Joe’s Bungalows

Joe's Bungalow Kathaluwa


Here’s a secret retreat that’s only recently opened to guests: Joe’s Bungalow at Kathaluwa, inland from near the 132km marker on the A2 south coast road, close to Koggala. It’s a place those who’ve discovered would prefer me not to write about, in case they can’t rent it when they want. That it’s available for local and foreign tourists is thanks to Joe Amirthalingam, chairman of Jolanka Resorts, who decided to open his own homes in Sri Lanka to visitors.


Built beside the river, with its own boating deck and a riverside gazebo for enjoying sun downers (bring your own), the bungalow is over 100 years old, stylishly modernised while preserving the serenity of its setting. The old house has a bedroom off the veranda with an attached bathroom and one other guest room with access to a bathroom across the hall. There is a parlour with a large table and a television gallery above it. Two more bedrooms, with attached bathrooms, are above the gazebo. A beautiful swimming pool blends in with the garden scenery.

Pool with a river view


I discovered the bungalow thanks to Ananda Warakawa, the Group General Manager of Jolanka Resorts, who was for many years Director of Food & Beverage at Colombo’s upmarket Galadari Hotel. His aim is to make sure Joe’s bungalows are run to the standards of a five-star hotel but at affordable prices (around US$100 double, full board): boutique properties without the extravagance.

Joe's Bungalow Unawatuna


There is another bungalow, a villa and two chalets, on the beach at the eastern end of Unawatuna, at the edge of the tourist action but safely distanced from it, and only a short drive from the Galle exit of the Southern Expressway. Other bungalows in this cosy collection are at Yala and Jaffna. The homely concept is expanded at Joe’s property near Habarana with a charming 20-chalet resort, complete with modern swimming pool, set in the village of Digampathana.
Joe’s Bungalows & Habarana Village, tel: 011 2507848; email: joesbungalow@jolankagroup.com; www.joesbungalow.com

Templeberg Fellowship

The owners of Templeberg Villa near Galle have set up a fellowship with an award to an Australian writer of a month’s sponsored stay at Templeberg to write. I am one of the three judges (the other two are in Australia) and am keenly perusing the shortlist of 12 submissions of sample text to see who is the most deserving. The winner will be announced later this month.

The Viceroy Special

Sri Lankan Railways celebrates its 150[SUP]th[/SUP] anniversary next year since the day in December 1864 when the line from Colombo to Ambepussa was ceremonially opened by the Duke of Brabant, later King Leopold II of Belgium. It’s thanks to one Sri Lankan, Hemasiri Fernando, that there is anything left of the steam era after the full dieselisation of the railway in 1969.
Hemasiri was tireless in his efforts to make a reality of the idea of resurrecting abandoned locomotives and old carriages to create a tourist train pulled by a steam engine. He succeeding in winning the support of all the important railwaymen at the time and the tourist train came into being in 1986, called The Viceroy Special.



From my article Roar of the Iron Devil in The Times, 14 Dec 1991; photo by Dominic Sansoni

Hemasiri Fernando has just written an engrossing book about the difficulties he faced (as well as the cooperation he inspired) in setting up the project.
The reader learns that: “The project ‘Viceroy Special’ not only saved four broad gauge locomotives from extinction but also paved the way for Sri Lankan Railways to preserve two narrow gauge steam locomotives and the priceless narrow gauge railcar, which is the only working model of its class in the world.”
The book is illustrated with line drawings and plenty of photographs to enthral steam enthusiasts. There is even one of me in the restaurant car, which brought back happy memories of the bar on board, the excellent food – sometimes prepared by moonlighting chefs from five-star hotels – and the conviviality of every journey on the train.



The Viceroy Special crossing Nine Arches Bridge, by Gemunu Amarasinghe from my book Sri Lanka By Rail (1994). jpg

The book has all the tension of a suspense novel, thanks to Hemasiri’s frank writing style and the enchanting use of recounted conversations to impart facts. It’s a jolly good read about Hemasiri’s dream. I hope his other rail dream, of a National Railway Museum, also comes true.
The Viceroy Special by Hemasiri Fernando (256 pages, Sarasavi Publishers Ltd, ISBN 978-955-44167-0-3, January 2013)


Happy Travels
Royston Ellis

sonnige Grüsse aus der Schweiz

Premasiri :wink:
 
Zuletzt bearbeitet:
ROYSTON’S REPORT, Number 169
Tropical Topics, Sunday 14 July 2013.

Made In Sri Lanka
Most Sri Lankans sniffling or with cold related symptoms immediately make themselves a cup of Samahan. This is an indigenous and wholly natural formulation known as a Peyawa, an infusion in boiling water of an instantly dissolving mix of coriander, ginger, black pepper, liquorice, yellow berried nightshade and nine other ingredients (listed on the packet) plus cane sugar.


Samahan to fight colds

It is said to have been devised by “a multi-disciplinary team of Ayurvedic physicians, research scientists and technologists” and “is efficacious, convenient to prepare and administer and pleasant to taste and bears an attractive flavour that vies with any beverage.” Hmm. That sounds like hype but I discovered to my delight when I was about to go down with a cold, that Samahan really does work. It costs Rs 12 [.06p; .09 cents] for a 4g sachet.


Map Collecting
Ever since I was a child I have been interested in maps, influenced perhaps by the days when much of a map of the world was coloured pink; for Empire. When I lived in Dominica, I collected antique maps of the West Indies, trawling map and print galleries in London and Barbados whenever I visited there.
Now, thanks to the Internet, it’s possible to discover and buy maps from anywhere in the world. Because they are easy to post by airmail, antique maps are very collectible. Perhaps it’s the very availability of antique maps that has kept their price down, making them a poor investment in terms of profit. But I buy them for their beauty and historical interest.


Maps by Bertius 1616

So I was thrilled recently to find through the Internet this map, nearly 400 years old, by Petrus Bertius published in Amsterdam in 1616. It’s especially appealing to me as it shows the Maldives and Sri Lanka (called both Zeilan and Ceylon then) side by side on the same miniature page. The sea monsters add to its attraction and I was pleased to identify places in Sri Lanka that exist today being depicted four centuries ago.


Morden's Map of Sri Lanka, 1688

I’ve sent it for framing and it will soon share pride of place on my parlour wall with this map of Ceylon by Robert Modern, printed in 1688 (see: http://roystonellis.com/blog/roystons-report-number-143/)


Learning Sinhala


Sometimes I feel vaguely ashamed that, having lived in Sri Lanka for more than three decades, I don’t speak Sinhala or Tamil. I make various excuses for this, saying that anyway English is a language of Sri Lanka and I speak that. When I did take some lessons in Sinhala (and learned how to ask where the nearest bar is) all the Sinhalese I spoke to wanted to try out their English on me instead. And, anyway, some of my Tamil friends speak English but not Sinhala.
For new residents who want to learn Sinhala, I hear from the indefatigable Henri Tatham that she is arranging Sinhala classes from 26 to 31 August in Galle by “a brilliant teacher Michael Meyler. He taught at the British Council for years, speaks beautiful fluent Sinhala and Tamil and is in my view the best teacher I have found to date.”


Cover of Michael Mayler's dictionary

The cost for the five day intensive course (either morning or afternoon) is Rs12,500 [£ 62.50; $ 96.15] per person: info@kikilienterprises.com


Viceroy Special again.


From a reader in Britain has come this comment on my review last week of “The Viceroy Special” by the train’s instigator, Hemasiri Fernando.
I was intrigued to read about the Viceroy Special. But what happened to the train – does it still exist, and run some sort of service, or what? And what about the narrow-gauge railcar – where’s that got to? Perhaps in store somewhere, and waiting for a future museum to house it?



Sentinel rail car by Gemunu Amarasinghe, from my article in Sunday Times, 24 November 1991.

The Viceroy Special is still in operation, running when chartered by groups of rail fans or by tour operators. Individual seats are not bookable. Hemasiri Fernando does have hopes of being able to put the narrow gauge Sentinel steam railcar in operation for groups but since the KV Line narrow gauge track on which it used to run has been converted to broad gauge, a special section would have to be revived (or laid).


Red Dot Tours


Red Dot Tours seems to be the largest independent tour operator organising tours of Sri Lanka, with hotels and transport at whatever standard (and places) visitors want, included in a package. You just tell them what to do and they arrange everything.
This isn’t a plug for the company but for my own blog that I have begun to write monthly at Red Dot’s request. It’s available at http://www.thesrilankatravelblog.com/

Gone Man Squared

A few months ago, an email turned up in my spam box. The writer asked me if I would agree to the publishing of some of my earlier works in paperback. I took it to be from one of those vanity publishers who undertake to publish a (usually amateur) author’s work for a huge fee. The author – if he gets anything at all - then gets stuck with a garage load of books that he has to sell – or give away – to get rid of.

Luckily, before I trashed the email I read it through a second time. It was from Kicks Books, a New York publishing company, keen not only to publish a collection of my beat poetry from the early 1960s, but to pay me an advance on royalties for being granted the right to do so!


Coming soon

The book, Gone Man Squared, is to be published soon and already publicity is beginning in the USA. You can read more about it on http://nortonrecords.com/kicksbooks/ellis.php


Gone Man Squared back cover

Beat regards

Royston Ellis

wünsche allen Usern einen wunderschönen und sonnigen Sonntag

Premasiri :wink:
 
Hallo Premasiri,

ja, das gute Samahan. Wir haben damit wirklich gute Erfahrungen gemacht. Hänschen hatte im Februar eine schlimme Erkältung, da hat das Personal vom GH gleich jemanden zum nächsten Shop geschickt, um Samahan zu besorgen. Hat dann auch wirklich relativ schnell geholfen. Gegen Magen/Darmbeschwerden wurde ein Arrak/Limettengemisch angerührt. Kennst Du das auch?

Liebe Grüsse, Biggi
 
Gegen Magen/Darmbeschwerden wurde ein Arrak/Limettengemisch angerührt. Kennst Du das auch?

Hallo Biggi,

Samahan habe ich immer zu Hause...sobald sich eine Erkältung ankündigt nehmen...hilft immer.

Von dem Arrack Gemisch habe ich noch nie gehört...kann mir aber vorstellen das es hilft.

LG Premasiri :wink:
 
Samahan muss jedes Mal mit. Samahan hilft auch gut, wenn man sich richtig abgeschlagen fühlt.
LG Petra
 
Ich bin mächtig beeindruckt. was Du schon alles probiert hast......:respekt::elefant:

LG Petra

Das musst Du nicht sein.. auch nicht ironisch.
Bei einer Salmonellenvergiftung mit vollem Programm und 40° Fieber trinkst Du das,auch wenn Du nicht magst.
 
Zuletzt bearbeitet:
Von der "Firma" Samahan gibt es auch noch einen Saft gegen Magen/Darm.
Schmeckt bähhhhh, aber hilft, wie auch der Tee bei Erkältung.
LG Elli
 
ROYSTON’S REPORT NUMBER 170
Tropical Topics, Sunday 21 July
Sri Lanka snacks and a new hotel feature in this week’s newsletter. Welcome.
Made in Sri Lanka
When Kumara’s son, Sasindu (4), caught chicken pox,his parents vowed to give an offering of kiri dana (alms) after he was cured. Making the kiriya involved scraping the flesh of coconuts collected from the cottage garden and soaking the scrapings in water to produce coconut milk.


Sasindu scrapes coconut flesh

The milk was combined with red rice flour and raisins, cardamoms and sugar, and stirred continuously by energetic neighbours over a wood fire for several hours during the night until the mixture thickened.


Villagers lend a hand at mixing

The mix was spread on banana leaves, allowed to cool, and then cut into squares for offering to seven kiri amma, especially chosen village women, and for distribution to family and friends.


Presenting alms

It tastes a bit like a heavy duty crème caramel, and goes well with unsweetened tea or strong black coffee.


Cheese please

In response to recent enquiries about the wonderful balls of cheese made in the hill country, about which I wrote many months ago, the cheesemaker is Chris Worthington (cjworth@live.com) who delivers his cheeses to Colombo once a month. Flavoured balls (crushed black pepper, chilli, caraway) have to be ordered at least one month in advance. Chris also makes parmesan style in packets of 125gm at Rs500 [£ 2.50; US$ 3.84] and 500gm at Rs1,750 [£ 8.75; $ 13.46]. His next delivery to Colombo is on Thursday 25 July.


A Chris Worthington caraway cheese
Cinnamon Bey

A new hotel has opened at Moragala on the coast within 15 minutes by tuk-tuk from where I live, so I popped along there recently as I’ve heard it’s a great place to dine. It should be since it has so many restaurants, including those offering Asian-Fusion, Japanese, Grill, Arabic and (unlikely to see me) Spa cuisine.

The hotel has been constructed on the footprint of two others, Confifi and Beyroo, by Sri Lanka’s “boy wonder” architect, Channa Daswatte who was a pupil of Geoffrey Bawa. He has blended Bawa’s signature austerity design with his own individual flair for colour and innovation. The result is a breathtaking interior of smooth lines and columns and mosaic tiles (to conjure up a Turkish theme) and intriguing spaces, such as the amphitheatre style piazza facing the ocean.



Cinnamon Bey sea view piazza

There are 170 superior rooms in one wing and 28 deluxe rooms (shown below) in the other wing, which also has two suites with plunge pools. There are three other swimming pools, one for each wing and one for children. With lots of wooden lattice screens, a couple of bars (one boasts 43 different vodkas) and several restaurants (including one dishing out home made icecream) and a cheerful, helpful staff, this is a welcome addition to Sri Lanka’s tourist infrastructure.


Cinnamon Bey deluxe bedroom
Rest House Snack

I plan to dine there soon but after my recent visit I took the road along the coast, behind Beruwala, to the Beruwala Beach Resthouse, close to the gates of the fishing harbour. Athough it has a room for private drinking and eating, I preferred the drinking den at the back of the resthouse, where the other customers seemed to be retired fishermen and relaxing tearaways. The bar counter is like a fortress and the place no better than it should be.


Beruwala Beach Resthouse public bar

I want there to see whether the fish snacks were as good as I remembered from my visit three years ago (see: http://roystonellis.com/blog/a-view-from-sri-lanka-number-35/ ). I ordered Deep Fried Handalla, a fish similar to whitebait, and it was scrumptious, and only Rs300 [£ 1.50; US$ 2.30] an ample portion. It’s a pity that the tourist restaurants and hotels don’t feature this simple local delicacy, preferring to offer cuttle fish or prawns instead.


Handalla

Jungle Hiker



From a regular reader comes a request to see if I know anybody who would like to buy a copy of a rare book, The Jungle Hiker. Published in 1942, by the Ceylon Observer Press it was issued to RAF aircrew and makes fascinating reading with tips on how to survive having to bale out, and Sinhala and Tamil phrases, such as “Where are the Japanese?"

It’s a real period piece with a cover wonderfully evocative of more nonchalant days, even though it was wartime. If you’re interested, send me an email and I’ll pass your address on to the owner, who inherited it from her father.

Gremlims

Apologies to those who tried to find out more information about the intensive Sinhala classes being held in Galle, 26-31 August 2013. The email address got truncated; it is info@kikilienterprises.com

The same thing happened to the link about the Morden map of 1688, which should be: http://roystonellis.com/blog/roystons-report-number-143/

Blast from the past

Steve Turner, the author of books on The Beatles and on Cliff Richard, recently sent me this amazing clip, filmed in Jersey in the summer of 1963. Watch it carefully, not just for the reality of 50 years ago and glimpses of half-naked Beatles, but for a sighting of a youthful bearded (blazered) beat poet.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMzozEyXVGs

Gone Man Squared

And now some fab news! Tomorrow, Monday 22 July 2013, sees the publication by Kicks Books of New York (a division of Norton Records) of the collected volume of my 1960s beat poems Gone Man Squared (ISBN 9780965977791). It has a foreward by one of the world’s greatest rock guitarists, Jimmy Page, who used to back me (as did The Beatles and The Shadows) when I performed these poems on stage and TV over 50 years ago. Read on…




To order, try: http://nortonrecords.com/kicksbooks/ellis.php


Beat regards
Royston

verspätet eingestellt aber kam gestern erst um 21:00 von der Arbeit...
wünsche allen eine schöne Sommerwoche mit ein wenig Abkühlung

LG Premasiri :smilinse:
 
ROYSTON’S REPORT Number 171
TROPICAL TOPICS, Sunday 28 July 2013.



Greetings. Eggs, auctions & a famous film producer feature this week.


Laid in Sri Lanka



I’ve written about my passion for quail eggs before; now this week my foraging in the local supermarket unexpectedly yielded not pickled quail eggs (see Report 144), but natural, freshly laid ones. A packet of 10 cost Rs100 [£ .50p; $ 0.76c] and they are marketed by Siripela Enterprises of Moratuwa.



Quail power

When I googled Quail Eggs, I was gratified to learn that theyare “packed with vitamins and minerals. Even with their small size, their nutritional value is three to four times greater than chicken eggs. Regular consumption of quail eggs helps fight against many diseases. They are a natural combatant against digestive tract disorders such as stomach ulcers.

“Quail eggs strengthen the immune system, promote memory health, increase brain activity and stabilise the nervous system. They help with anaemia by increasing the level of haemoglobin in the body while removing toxins and heavy metals. In men, quail eggs provide the prostate gland with phosphorus, proteins, and vitamins that can be a powerful stimulant for sexual potency.”
I’d better buy more!

Schokman & Samerawickreme



It may not be a catchy name but the Auction House of Schokman and Samerawickreme has caught the attention of those who collect or sell anything in Sri Lanka. Nothing is too small or too big for the two dynamic brothers who now run the firm, Navinda and Anuja Samerawickreme, to auction.



The new showroom

They have just opened a dedicated saleroom in Colombo where drop-in customers can buy anything on display, and where auctions can be held in space and comfort (fans have been installed too!) Previously auctions were held on site, with potential purchasers clamouring to see what was being offered in hot, stuffy rooms, or in dusty, rented halls and makeshift shelters.



Spacious and bidder-friendly

The new auction and sales facility is massive; purpose built and user friendly. It can even be turned into a car showroom, and an auction of vintage vehicles is planned there soon. Everything on display (from tiny saucers at Rs400 [£ 2; $ 3.07] to a huge wooden elephant at Rs250,000 and a rare Chinese wooden door at Rs750,000 [£ 3,750; $ 5,769]) is price marked. The prices are a guide; offers are welcome. The sale room at 63 Isipathana Mawatha, off Havelock Road, Colombo 5 (www. sandslanka.com), is open daily from 9am.



Everything is catalogued and price marked

I’ve bought and sold several things with Navinda and Anuja during the past 20 years. Their auctions are always well conducted, fair and fun. The company has its roots in the19th century when Edwin de Alwis Samerawickreme joined founder Schokman who specialised in auctioneering the effects of colonials returning “home.” The next generation of Lloyd, Derrick, Gwen, Shirley and Anuja Samerawickreme expanded the business and now Navinda and Anuja are bringing it into the 21[SUP]st[/SUP] century. It is the only auction house in South East Asia to possess the ISO 9001:2008 System certificate for Auctioning, Valuing and Real Estate brokering.



Auctioneer Navinda Samerawickreme, JP and
potential bidder

Navinda states, “We treasure the trust placed in us. Our unwavering commitment is to deliver quality and value to our customers.” I’ll bid on that.


Lunch


Lunch in Colombo used to be limited to buffet dining in the city’s hotels, fast fooding it in international chain outlets, pot luck in a local hotspot or diving into the Cricket Club Café (CCC). Although now there is a great choice of restaurants in the city, a lot of them put up their shutters at 2.30pm and, although their food might be good, the waiting staff so often lacks understanding (not of language but of “service”).
So what a relief to discover that CCC is still going strong. I always head through the garden and parlour dining spaces (and ignoring the AC long room restaurant) for the bar. It’s pub style (smoking allowed) and open all day, as is the kitchen, producing marvellous quick cooked grub at reasonable prices. I usually start with spinach salad topped with a poached egg and bacon pieces and drenched in an enticing dressing. (Rs395 [£ 1.97; $ 3.03])



Pie appeal

I follow that with an amazing Drovers Pie (available with either pastry or mashed potato topping) crammed full of juicy lamb chunks, and costing only Rs895 [£ 4.47; $ 6.88]. The service has always been good at the Cricket Club Café and it remains so, with personable young men who know their job and are happy to explain the menu’s dishes or make sure the Margarita (Rs 755 [£ 3.77; $ 5.80]) is mixed perfectly.



Billed with a smile by Aruna

Jamil Dehlavi


A welcome visitor to my cottage last week was Jamil Dehlavi, the independent film producer behind such iconic films as Jinnah. That 1998 award-winning film starring Sir Christopher Lee is the story of the founding of Pakistan. Jamil’s latest film with the intriguing title of Seven Lucky Gods tells the tale of an illegal UK immigrant from Albania who infiltrates the lives of a group of Londoners, with devastating consequences.



Jamil Dehlavi on the train to
Galle

I first met Jamil when he bought an option on the film rights to novel set in 16[SUP]th[/SUP] century Maldives, first published in 2000 with the title A Hero In Time. We’re still hoping the film will eventually be made. Jamil was fascinated by the “walking trees” (screw pines) in the cottage garden (see Report 34): and horrified at the cost of beachside land here (Rs 700,000 [£ 3,500 $ 5,385] a perch, ie: £ 490,000 an acre).



A walking tree

Hot off the press


My latest book, Gone Man Squared, is now available direct by airmail from the USA via:
http://nortonrecords.gostorego.com/kicks-books/kicks-books/hip-pocket-books/gone-man-squared-by-royston-ellis.html






Beat regards
Royston

Wünsche allen eine Abkühlung, heute und gestern war sehr heiss um zu arbeiten

LG Premasiri :wink:
 
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